Buy Crucial CT256M4SSD2 256GB m4 2.5-inch SATA 6Gb/s (SATA III) Internal SSDCrucial CT256M4SSD2 256GB m4 2.5-inch SATA 6Gb/s (SATA III) Internal SSD Product Description:
- Weight:75 g
- NAND Flash Memory Type:Multi-level cell (MLC)
- Form Factor:2.5" x 1/8H
- Device Type:Solid state drive - internal
- Interface:Serial ATA-600
Product Description
Technical Specifications: Format (inches): 2.5 " · Interfaces (type-maintain without number): SATA-III (600MB/s) · Transfer rate (reading): 500 MB/s · Transfer rate (writing): 260 MB/s · Type (manufacturer type): CT256M4SSD2 Description: CrucialSSD hard disk CT256M4SSD2 256 GB 2.5 " SATA-III (600MB/s
Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
152 of 159 people found the following review helpful.
Really fast, pretty small
By Christopher Burns
I picked up one of these a few days ago to complement a newer Sandy Bridge setup. For no reason I could ever figure out, my boot times were terrible with the motherboard (an Asus P8P67 Pro) using a conventional HD - on the order of 3 minutes from cold until the PC was responsive. Connected to a SATA-3 controller, this SSD reduced my boot time to around 35 seconds, and, once the desktop appears, the PC is fully responsive to whatever you want to do. It sounds obvious, but the main thing that differentiates SSDs from conventional HDs is this "snappiness" factor - seek times are completely flat, thus, the only delay is actually transferring data off the drive to RAM for CPU operations (and this drive is capable of >400 megabyte per second bursts). The drive is also completely silent, and it's slightly weird not to hear the usual HD ticking & clicking. You may also need a 3.5" drive bay adapter; physically, the drive is about 50% bigger than a credit card and very light - alternatively, I have seen these drives held in place by double-sided tape - with no moving parts, you can pretty much put them anywhere the data and power cables will stretch. Also, a side effect of the "solid state" part of the drive is that it is largely unaffected by any movements or accidental drops - anything that doesn't destroy the casing will leave the drive completely unaffected - the interior is largely the same as a USB flash drive, but with larger capacity chips and a small controller.I initially had some trouble with the drive (some stuttering and pausing) after installing Windows7 then Intel's RST drivers (the drive is connected to an Intel ICH9 port), and decided that a re-format would be my best option to completely get rid of the Intel drivers. When installing Windows only takes 12 minutes - and at that, you're largely limited to your DVD drive's transfer rate more than anything else, it's no longer a chore, and using Win7's built-in ACHI drivers fixed the problem completely.There's also a little more to installing one of these compared with a standard HD. You should connect it to a SATA-3 drive port to get best performance (although it will remain very fast if you're using a SATA-2 port on older motherboards). You also need to run the Windows Experience Index in Windows7 (and in fact, use Windows7 too, since it contains drive control commands optimised for SSDs not found in older versions of Windows). When Windows has run the Windows Experience Index, it will fully recognise the drive as an SSD and automatically disable some scheduled processes like defragmentation etc. Lastly you can check your speeds are what they should be with e.g. AS SSD Benchmark - sequential reads should be over 300 or 400 megabytes per second depending on the controller you're using, and if so, you're good to go.Obviously, the downsides to this drive are the high cost and relatively small capacity; at 120GB after formatting, a default installation of Windows7 itself will immediately eat another 17GB or so, so you're basically looking at 100GB all told once you're set up. While smaller applications like web-browsers etc. load more or less instantly now, more extensive applications show less benefit - e.g. a modern multi-gigabyte game will only show speed differences of a couple of seconds. In all, it's a mixed bag, but, I could see myself abandoning conventional HDs in the future as prices come down over time. If you need very large quantities of storage space, you won't want to use these, but 100GB is minimally useful for a working system plus a few apps. And of course, you can continue to use any existing HDs you have for secondary storage.EDIT : Been running this drive for slightly over a year now with no real ill effects, although I am finding the 128gb quite cramped now with the addition of a Dropbox account (weirdly, even though the Dropbox folder is on another, larger drive). A minor speed-bump was the firmware update Crucial sent out late last year where unless installed, the drive would reboot itself after (x) thousand hours of use. As a bonus, however, once you have the update installed, you get an extra 100mb/sec speed boost, so it's not all bad - although the bug would effectively prevent you from using your PC for more than an hour at a time.Since I bought this, prices have roughly halved, and I'm strongly considering getting another one of these in the 256GB flavour to complement the existing one.
27 of 28 people found the following review helpful.
Excellent. Works great with MacBook Pro.
By jbarrett
This works very well with my MacBook Pro (15 inch early 2011). However it is necessary to install a firmware update (see instructions below) in order for the SSD to work. Once installed I noticed a dramatic speed improvement. Did a fresh install of Mountain Lion and it's like a new laptop!Instructions for MacBook Pro (early 2011):1) Backup your files to an external hard drive with Time Machine.2) Go to the Crucial website and download the latest firmware (as of writing version 000F). This consists of a .iso and a .pdf guide.3) Burn the iso to a black CD or DVD using Disk Utility. (The USB option did NOT work for me!). There's plenty of guides/videos on how to burn an .iso if you search the web.4) Two options at this point: a) Create a bootable OS X install USB so that you can install an operating system on the SSD once it's installed or b) use your Time Machine backup to copy your files to your new SSD. I'll follow option a).5) Insert the firmware DVD/CD into your Macbook and shut it down. Open it up and remove your current hard drive. Replace it with the SSD and screw everything back in place (again there's plenty of excellent videos online if you're unsure...)6) Turn on your MacBook. I didn't have to press anything. After about 30 seconds the firmware updater presented itself. You'll be prompted for a 'yes' or 'no'. Type 'yes' and hit enter. After another minute or so the firmware will be updated.7) Hold the power button to switch off your MacBook. Insert your OS X install USB stick. Power up your MacBook while holding the option key. Select the OS X installer.8) Once you've booted into the USB installer you'll be presented with a menu. Select Disk Utility. If everything has gone according to plan you should see your new SSD drive in the menu. Reformat it to Mac OS (Journaled). Exit Disk Utility and from the menu you can now select Install OS X. Choose this and select your SSD for installation.Additional options:At this point you might want to invest in a special hard drive caddy that allows your to replace the internal DVD drive with a second hard drive. I bought the brainy deal version for about £12 on amazon. If you want to use this open up your MacBook again. Unscrew the DVD drive and replace it with your the hard drive caddy containing your original HD (again plenty of good guides online..). With this setup you have the speed of an SSD and the larger storage capacity of hard drive. Obviously install the system and apps on the SSD. Larger downloads, movies, or backups can be placed on your second hard drive.Enjoy!
79 of 84 people found the following review helpful.Crucial M4 SSD Turbo-charged my PC
By Mannu
I use my PC mainly for gaming (racing/simulator), photo processing, video creation, working on documents, entertainment (music and videos) and internet browsing.Before the Crucial M4, my PC configuration (based on a P55 chipset) looked something like this: Windows 7 64-bit, Processor: i5-760 (@ 2.8 Ghz), 8 GB RAM, 2xGTX 460 (in SLI), 1 TB HDD.My choice for the HDD (spinning at 5400 rpm) wasn't the wisest and I could see how much it affected my system's overall performance. Adding a SSD-HDD was really the only way I could maximise the potential of my system.I've been watching the evolution of the SSDs from the the past couple of years. Apart from the prices, (earlier) firmware issues kept me from investing in a SSD-HDD.However, as the performance of the SSDs had started to become more stable (compared to earlier), I thought it was the right moment to start looking for something to upgrade my system with.Since the SSD will be used as a system drive (OS+programs and the current game that I'm playing), a 120/128 GB SSD-HDD was my target.My criteria for selection were:1. Performance on SATA III (6 Gbps) - although my system supports only SATA II, I wanted something that was 'future-proof'2. Performance on SATA II (3 Gbps) - this was a critical point for selection3. Reliability - many 'performance oriented' SSDs have the reliability of a leaking boat. I wanted something that had a proven track-record for reliability4. Performance per $5. Cost per GBIt took me almost two weeks to gather enough information about all the SSDs in the market and check if they met my criteria.Many SSDs failed to meet criterion #2, which shortened my list to about 5 names.The controller on the SSDs impacts the performance and also the reliability of a SSD. Sandforce controller based SSDs show better performance, but reliability differs from SSD manufacturer to manufacturer.I was left with 2 names in the end: Mushkin Chronos Deluxe and Crucial M4.The ultimate winner for me was the Crucial M4 for the following reasons:1. Performance on SATAIII may not be the best, but with the 0009 firmware update, performance levels are right amongst the top Sandforce controller based SSDs.2. Crucial M4 SSD drives have shown the least percentage performance drop when operating on SATAII. The Sandforce controller based drives, except the Mushkin Chronos Deluxe, are hit badly.3. In terms of reliability, only Intel, Mushkin and Crucial have shown sustained stable results.4. Crucial M4 ranks amongst the top SSDs for performance per $. It is only bettered by its older sibling the C300.5. Crucial's SSDs have by far the best (or almost the best) cost per GB over the entire range of SSDs offered by any manufacturer.6. Availability of Crucial M4 drives is better than Mushkin Chronos Deluxe.Migrating my system drive (C:) from my old HDD to the Crucial M4 with a $19.95 software made a big mess. After migration, the SSD drive was not configured for optimum performance and after 3 re-boots, my geniune Windows 7 got invalidated. This forced me to take the much preferred route of a fresh install.Doing a fresh install (or reinstall) in the past was always a daunting task taking me sometimes up to 2 days to set up my PC right - with all required programs, settings etc. This incredible drive shrunk that time to 4 hours!!!The performance after the fresh install also improved significantly. The AS-SSD score went from 365 (post-migration) to 515 (fresh-install) - not bad for a SATAII.To summarise, metaphorically, the addition of the Crucial M4 128 GB to my system is like the BMW M5. It is one of the best 'track-day' weapons, and it also seats 5 persons!Kudos to Crucial for a great product!
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